This summer, I was very lucky to be able to take time away and spend two months backpacking out West. Now that I’m home, I’ll be writing up some trip reports, sharing photos, and maybe a few personal reflections about my time away. First up: Three days in the Desolation Wilderness, located near Lake Tahoe at the northern end of the Sierra Nevada mountain range in California.
Riddled with alpine lakes, dramatic granite features, a well-marked trail system, and easy-to-access trailheads, Desolation Wilderness is a great destination for beginner and experienced backpackers alike. It’s a place I have long wanted to explore, and it was a perfect place to kick off my summer, and the full month I spent embedded in the Sierra, my very favorite mountain range.
Being the most used wilderness area per square mile in the United States, I wasn’t expecting solitude in early July 2022, and indeed, I saw dozens of backpackers each day, including many PCT hikers. Even so, the trip was fantastic. I have had a long-standing interest in exploring this area and the section of the PCT that cuts through it, and it didn’t disappoint.
It being another low snow year in California, entering on July 4, meant clear trails and abundant wildflowers. Reunited with my friend Erika, whom I met on the JMT in 2018, the trip started from Meeks Bay and traveled over Phipps and Dicks Passes. We camped at Middle Velma Lake and Aloha Lake before exiting at the Echo Lake trailhead, covering 32 miles in three days.
Starting out early, full of anticipation, we saw a black bear almost immediately. Can you spot it? (Bears are commonly seen in the Tahoe area because of the urban-wildland interface. If you visit, please be sure to dispose of your garbage and store your food properly so bears don’t become further habituated.)
From the Meeks Bay Trailhead, our route began with a nice and easy ascent to a series of lakes before making the climb to Phipps Pass, and then dropping down to Velma Lakes. After a twelve mile day, we were more than ready to set up camp and enjoy our first night in the wilderness.
We were treated to a nice sunrise in the morning before continuing on our way.
We soon arrived at Fontanillis Lake, a beautiful spot surrounded by granite outcroppings that begged to be explored. Next time!
We then climbed to Dicks Pass, which lies just below 10,000 feet and provides expansive views towards Lake Aloha, our destination for that night, and 11 miles from Middle Velma.
Along the way, we were entertained by trees and wildflowers.
Lake Aloha was plagued by swarms of flies, which didn’t bother us for long because a strong and persistent wind stayed with us all evening and into the night, driving us into our tents earlier than usual. The clouds above the mountains never moved, creating a moody and unusual light.
Our last day was a short and easy 8-mile hike out to the Echo Lake Trailhead near Highway 50. Ending at Echo Lake was pretty great because they have a small store with cold drinks and ice cream, which are requirements after every hike!
Our one-way route from Meeks Bay to Echo Lake was possible because we had two cars, but Crown Taxi, a South Lake Tahoe cab service, can provide a ride back to your starting point. Cell service is available at Echo Lakes and their number was pinned to the bulletin board outside the store.
Desolation Wilderness is a beautiful and easy-to-access area. The abundant wildflowers, granite, and lakes set me off on the right foot for the next leg of my journey into the Emigrant Wilderness. Knowing I would be setting off solo for the next 6 weeks, I was so glad to have the company of my friend, Erika, to ease into this adventure.
Hike Well 